Saturday 13 July 2013

Reviving British manufacturing: closer than you think

Whilst in my third year I compiled a portfolio for a Journalism module I was taking. This is one of the stories I found and developed, after interviewing a local leather goods company Deni-Deni based in Haslingden, Lancs.  I linked the company to the revival of British manufactured fashion. I gained 68% in the module overall.

Reviving British manufacturing: closer than you think


For years British companies have been sending their manufacturing to China- labour and mass production are cheap and the workers have a more dedicated work ethic.  According to a survey taken out buy the Engineering Employers Federation (EEF) this is about to change.  Recent reports show that around 40% of British companies are bringing production home after recent economical and natural disasters that have occurred off shore.

Marks and Spencer, one of Britain's most famous retail department store sell 61,000,000 pairs of knickers a year- that have all been imported.  With reports from July 2012 stating that 963,000 unemployed young people are living in the UK, figures cannot be ignored that the recession has hit the country hard.


The closing of Cotton Mills in Lancashire in the 70's also put a strain on the textiles business, as it was cheaper to send production abroad.  Mary Portas, business woman and retail expert, put reviving British manufacturing to the test by kick starting production of high qualities knickers in a half shut down factory.  It was dubbed 'The Great British knicker experiment' and after 'Kinky Knickers' exploded on to the fashion scene, the demand for 100% British-made clothing has sky rocketed.


Portas took on apprentices, the long-term unemployed to work in her factory to gain new skills for her hit television series 'Mary's Bottom Line'.  Mary's risky experiment worked- the public were in demand for British made textiles and took the Mancunian family-run business Headen & Quarmby from a 5,000 per year production run to orders of 45,000 from prestigious stores including House of Fraser, Selfridges and Liberty.  A more modern market for the booming brand is ASOS.com, the UK's largest online-only fashion and beauty store, attracting younger clients to the underwear.


Apprenticeships are known to help businesses grow and help find raw, new talent, however, there has been a decrease in trades in recent years as many people feel a degree is the way to compete in the job market.  Perhaps not for long.


More close to home, local luxury leather goods manufacturer Deni-Deni, is putting their own stamp of the revival of British manufacturing.


Denise Pearson, originally from Newcastle, started her business after training in traditional leather goods at the prestigious Cordwainers College in London (now part of London College of Fashion)  After graduating first of her piers and gaining the rarely awarded 'Gold medal', Denise opened a small studio making individual couture handbags with techniques she learned at the college, who's impressive alumni include Jimmy Choo and Patrick Cox.

Deni-Deni's impressive collection


Denise originally created beautiful hand crafted luggage and handbags but as the company grew, she included accessories and furnishings into her collection.

Through natural progression, the studio has developed into a four strong team based in Haslingden, Rossendale.  Apprentices are a big part of the progress at Deni-Deni, and Denise is currently working with her third after taking on the previous apprentices full time after having built the studio to a thriving and engaging business.  Her team includes Katie St.John, Blackburn, Hannah Borrowdale, Manchester and Francesca Tudda also from Blackburn.


Katie St.John, 22, former apprentice at Deni-Deni said "I got the apprenticeship after studying a BTEC in Textiles and Fashion at college after failing to get into University.  It is the best thing I have ever done and have had a hands on approach that University could never have given me.  I now work full time for the company."


"I am proud to be part of the next generation to keep British manufacturing alive" she continued.

Katie at work


Deni-Deni has an enviable portfolio, including James Lock & Co, who's client base include the royals, and Topshop Unique that show at London Fashion Week (LFW) twice a year.  Topshop Unique, unlike it's high street sister Topshop, is not mass produced and Deni-Deni are the only supplier of the leather crafted bags.


Excitingly, another big name has been picked up by Denise and her employees more recently, after international knitwear designer Mark Fast approached the Rossendale based company in demand for a piece for his collection.


"Mark invited us down to LFW where we watched our bag in the show and caught up with him back stage" said Katie.  "It was so exciting but we tried to remain professional!"


As the new year begins, a new year is beginning for British manufacturing.  The small and subtle changes Britain's companies are making to boost the revival of textiles within the UK could be the step it needs to bring the rest of Britain behind them, to bring back production to this country with, more excitingly, a varied range of apprenticeships and new jobs.

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